Lawn Care

IMPORTANT!! LAY YOUR TURF IMMEDIATELY UPON DELIVERY.

• Water with at least 25 mm.
• During the establishment period which is generally 2 to 4 weeks you will need to keep your lawn moist.
• If the edges start to dry out then you need to apply more water.
• Ensure you cover the whole lawn with your watering and don’t leave any areas out.
• In warm conditions it is quite normal to water 4 times per day.
• You don’t need to flood your lawn but you do need to keep the turf and under-soil moist.

Ongoing watering

• Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established. You can test for this by trying to generally lift a corner of a roll or slab, if it doesn’t lift easily, the roots have set into the soil. This is a good thing as it means your lawn is growing well.
• Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering, depending on the weather and the climate in your region.
• The idea is to get to the point where you water less frequently, but give the lawn a deep soaking. This encourages deep root systems and so a more self-sufficient and drought tolerant lawn. As the water drains through the soil, the roots seek the water out deeper in the soil, rather than just hanging around near the surface, which is what will happen if you just give it short, regular splashes. Educate your lawn to go the distance.

• The best time to water your garden is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening, when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation.

• In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases.

• Mowing is recommended when the turf cannot be lifted, or as a guideline, 10-14 days after installation in warm weather or 14-28 days in cold weather. 
• Mow when the turf is dry and ensure your mower blades are sharp. 
• For the first couple of mows, mow in the same direction as the turf was laid, as this will help prevent scalping.

• Preferably never remove more than one third of the leaf blade (maintain a suitable height for your particular turf as stated in the lawn characteristics), at this height the turf will retain moisture and nutrients (low mowing may damage your lawn).

• To maintain a healthy, vigorous lawn, we recommend you fertilise two weeks after installation and then every 6-8 weeks all year round or at least the start of each new season.
• When fertilising your lawn, apply approximately 30g per square metre and remember to water in well.
• To help hold the colour of your lawn during winter, you can fertilise in late autumn using a combination of organic and slow release fertilisers.
• For lush green lawns, use a nitrogen – based fertiliser.
• Our Sales staff at CT Lawns can also assist you on choosing the correct fertiliser for your lawn.
• CT Lawns recommends the use of a quality fertiliser such as Lawntastic, Lawn Pride or Oxafert. These products can be purchased when ordering your turf or Call 1800 685 296.

• Armyworm (or the more common name, lawn grub) is a moth caterpillar that feeds on the turf foliage at night. The grubs come in large numbers and can cause rapid damage as they move across turf areas. An indicator that Armyworm is in your lawn is the presence of birds feeding in the early morning or late afternoon.
• Armyworm can be sprayed with any Lawn Grub killer, Weed Control, or Acelepryn.
• As a prevention we recommend you maintain your lawn with regular mowing during the warmer months.
• The eggs are laid in masses of 600-700 eggs that are covered with long, light brown hairs, these felt-like egg masses are cemented to leaves of trees and shrubs or on buildings close to lights and are often found on eaves and open ceilings.

• Brushing the egg masses off helps to physically control the insect, (we do not recommend hosing the eggs as this will wash the eggs into your turf).
• The lawn armyworm is a native of Southeast Asia, Indonesia, Australia and the South Pacific. The lawn armyworm is a serious problem and loves feeding on just about any lawn type. Severe damage to lawns is characterized by a completely denuded circular area sharply defined by a front of undamaged turf. With heavy populations of actively feeding larvae, this destruction may advance about 1 foot each night.
• To rid your lawn of Armyworm simply purchase Pest Control by calling Freephone 1800 685 296.

BINDII

• From the stem at the base of the leaves tiny flowers are produced in spring and these turn into burrs or sharp spines.

• Best sprayed with Bin-Die. Bin-Die has been formulated especially for use on buffalo lawns. It can also be used on Zoysia, Buffalo, Couch, Bent, Kikuyu, Paspalum, Fescue and Rye lawns.
• Broad spectrum selective weed killer that controls Bindii, Catsear, Clover, Creeping Oxalis, Cudweed, Dandelion, Plantain and Thistles.

Contains both contact and systemic herbicides. Bin-Die can be used throughout Spring and Autumn to control Bindii and a wide range of other nuisance weeds.

• Products available from CT Lawns Turf Consultants and Project Consultants.

NUT GRASS

• A weed that spreads by a tough wirey root system with small nut like tubers that form on the roots.
• It is a perennial weed with grass like leaves in the shape of triangular flower stems which bear flowers and seeds in umbrella like heads with a reddish-purple or brown appearance.
• Nut grass is extremely difficult to kill, and the best way to rid this nasty weed is by digging out the whole plant ensuring you remove all the roots and bulbs (any roots or bulbs left will reproduce).
• Registered product such as Apparent Halosulfuron 750 WG 25gm. Apparent Halosulfuron can be purchased from the CT Lawns Consultants or Project Consultants. Other intrusive weeds include: Paspalum Crowsfoot Summergrass Wintergrass and Catsear and again the best way to rid each of these weeds is to dig out and also ensure the roots are dug up as well.